Bonsai Blog
7 Reasons you should join a Bonsai Club
Submitted by Todd Cooper
Embracing the Art of Bonsai through Local Workshops and Clubs in South Florida
Bonsai, the ancient art of growing miniature trees, is more than just a horticultural practice—it's a journey into the world of patience, creativity, and community. For enthusiasts living in warmer regions, like Growing Zones 10 and 11, this journey offers unique opportunities and challenges. One of the most enriching ways to navigate this path is by participating in local bonsai workshops and becoming involved in bonsai clubs. In this article, we'll explore the multifaceted benefits of such engagement and how it can deepen your bonsai journey.
Learning from Experts
Bonsai workshops provide a rare opportunity to learn directly from experienced practitioners. These sessions often cover a range of topics, from basic care and maintenance to advanced styling techniques. In warmer climates, specific guidance on managing heat, humidity, and sun exposure can be invaluable. Workshops can also offer insights into selecting species that thrive in these zones, such as Ficus or Bougainvillea.
Hands-On Experience
There's no substitute for hands-on experience, especially in bonsai. Workshops often include practical sessions where you can apply new techniques under the guidance of an expert. This immediate feedback is crucial for honing skills and avoiding common mistakes. Additionally, many workshops provide materials, such as starter trees and tools, making them a great starting point for beginners.
Building Community
Bonsai clubs are more than just gatherings of enthusiasts; they are communities where members share knowledge, experiences, and even plants. Joining a local club can connect you with a network of supportive individuals who understand the challenges and joys of bonsai cultivation. These communities often host regular meetings, exhibitions, and even field trips, providing a social and educational outlet.
Access to Resources
Being part of a bonsai community can also open doors to resources that might be hard to find otherwise. This includes access to quality bonsai materials, tools, and even rare plant specimens. Clubs often have connections with local nurseries and suppliers, providing members with exclusive deals or first dibs on special items.
Showcasing Your Work
Bonsai clubs and workshops often organize exhibitions and contests, offering a platform for you to showcase your work. These events are not just about competition; they are celebrations of the art where feedback and appreciation from peers can be incredibly motivating. For many, seeing their bonsai on display and appreciated by others is a rewarding experience.
Continuous Learning and Growth
The world of bonsai is vast and ever-evolving. Being part of a bonsai community helps you stay updated with the latest techniques, styles, and care practices. Regular interactions with fellow enthusiasts can spark new ideas and perspectives, fueling your growth as a bonsai artist.
Giving Back
As you advance in your bonsai journey, participating in workshops and clubs allows you to give back by sharing your knowledge with newcomers. Teaching others can be as rewarding as learning and helps to keep the bonsai community vibrant and growing.
Finding Your Local Bonsai Community
Interested in joining a bonsai club or attending a workshop? Start by checking local garden centers, nurseries, or online bonsai forums. Many regions have dedicated bonsai societies with regular meetings and events. Social media platforms and online gardening communities can also be excellent resources to find nearby bonsai enthusiasts. For those of you living in the South Florida area The Bonsai Society of Miami is a great place to start. You’ll find us meeting on the second Tuesday of each month at Pinecrest Gardens, 11000 Red Road, Pinecrest FL 33156 on the corner of Red Road & 112th St. (Killian Drive). For questions please contact Glenn 786-298-3631 or Bob 305-793-9755.
For bonsai enthusiasts in South Florida, engaging with local workshops and clubs offers a path to not just grow their bonsai but also to grow as individuals and artists. It's an investment in both personal and communal growth, cultivating not just miniature trees but lasting friendships and shared passions. So, take the step to join a local bonsai community and experience the joy and fulfillment it brings to your bonsai journey.
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Submitted by Todd Cooper
Embracing the Art of Bonsai through Local Workshops and Clubs in South Florida
Bonsai, the ancient art of growing miniature trees, is more than just a horticultural practice—it's a journey into the world of patience, creativity, and community. For enthusiasts living in warmer regions, like Growing Zones 10 and 11, this journey offers unique opportunities and challenges. One of the most enriching ways to navigate this path is by participating in local bonsai workshops and becoming involved in bonsai clubs. In this article, we'll explore the multifaceted benefits of such engagement and how it can deepen your bonsai journey.
Learning from Experts
Bonsai workshops provide a rare opportunity to learn directly from experienced practitioners. These sessions often cover a range of topics, from basic care and maintenance to advanced styling techniques. In warmer climates, specific guidance on managing heat, humidity, and sun exposure can be invaluable. Workshops can also offer insights into selecting species that thrive in these zones, such as Ficus or Bougainvillea.
Hands-On Experience
There's no substitute for hands-on experience, especially in bonsai. Workshops often include practical sessions where you can apply new techniques under the guidance of an expert. This immediate feedback is crucial for honing skills and avoiding common mistakes. Additionally, many workshops provide materials, such as starter trees and tools, making them a great starting point for beginners.
Building Community
Bonsai clubs are more than just gatherings of enthusiasts; they are communities where members share knowledge, experiences, and even plants. Joining a local club can connect you with a network of supportive individuals who understand the challenges and joys of bonsai cultivation. These communities often host regular meetings, exhibitions, and even field trips, providing a social and educational outlet.
Access to Resources
Being part of a bonsai community can also open doors to resources that might be hard to find otherwise. This includes access to quality bonsai materials, tools, and even rare plant specimens. Clubs often have connections with local nurseries and suppliers, providing members with exclusive deals or first dibs on special items.
Showcasing Your Work
Bonsai clubs and workshops often organize exhibitions and contests, offering a platform for you to showcase your work. These events are not just about competition; they are celebrations of the art where feedback and appreciation from peers can be incredibly motivating. For many, seeing their bonsai on display and appreciated by others is a rewarding experience.
Continuous Learning and Growth
The world of bonsai is vast and ever-evolving. Being part of a bonsai community helps you stay updated with the latest techniques, styles, and care practices. Regular interactions with fellow enthusiasts can spark new ideas and perspectives, fueling your growth as a bonsai artist.
Giving Back
As you advance in your bonsai journey, participating in workshops and clubs allows you to give back by sharing your knowledge with newcomers. Teaching others can be as rewarding as learning and helps to keep the bonsai community vibrant and growing.
Finding Your Local Bonsai Community
Interested in joining a bonsai club or attending a workshop? Start by checking local garden centers, nurseries, or online bonsai forums. Many regions have dedicated bonsai societies with regular meetings and events. Social media platforms and online gardening communities can also be excellent resources to find nearby bonsai enthusiasts. For those of you living in the South Florida area The Bonsai Society of Miami is a great place to start. You’ll find us meeting on the second Tuesday of each month at Pinecrest Gardens, 11000 Red Road, Pinecrest FL 33156 on the corner of Red Road & 112th St. (Killian Drive). For questions please contact Glenn 786-298-3631 or Bob 305-793-9755.
For bonsai enthusiasts in South Florida, engaging with local workshops and clubs offers a path to not just grow their bonsai but also to grow as individuals and artists. It's an investment in both personal and communal growth, cultivating not just miniature trees but lasting friendships and shared passions. So, take the step to join a local bonsai community and experience the joy and fulfillment it brings to your bonsai journey.
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Soil Composition and Drainage: Perfecting the
Foundation for Bonsai in Zones 10 and 11
Submitted by Glenn Hilton
In the world of bonsai, soil isn't just dirt—it's the lifeblood of your miniature trees. For enthusiasts in Growing Zones 10 and 11, where conditions are often wet and humid, mastering soil composition and drainage becomes crucial. This blog will delve into the intricacies of tailoring the perfect soil mix for bonsai, ensuring optimal health and growth for these living art pieces.
Understanding the Basics of Bonsai Soil
Bonsai soil differs significantly from regular garden soil. It needs to provide support, nutrients, water, and air to the roots. A good bonsai soil mix has three key qualities: it should drain quickly, retain moisture, and offer enough aeration. Achieving this balance is especially critical in Zones 10 and 11, where excess moisture can lead to root rot and other diseases.
Components of an Ideal Bonsai Soil Mix
A typical bonsai soil mix contains varying proportions of organic and inorganic components. Here's what each brings to the table:
The specific ratios of these components can vary based on the bonsai species and local climate conditions. For Zones 10 and 11, a higher proportion of inorganic materials is often recommended.
Tailoring Soil Mix for Wet Climates
In Zones 10 and 11, the challenge is to prevent waterlogging while maintaining enough moisture. Here are some adjustments to consider:
Regularly checking the soil moisture is essential. Use a chopstick or moisture meter to gauge when watering is needed. In humid zones, allowing the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings can be beneficial.
Also, be aware of the signs of poor drainage or compacted soil, such as yellowing leaves or stunted growth. These symptoms call for an immediate soil assessment and potential repotting.
Special Considerations for Specific Bonsai Species
Different bonsai species have varied soil requirements. Tropical species, common in warmer zones, often prefer a bit more moisture and organic matter. Conversely, desert species like junipers demand very well-draining soils. Researching your specific bonsai species can guide you in customizing the soil mix further.
The Role of Fertilization
Soil isn't just about water and air; it's also about nutrients. In a well-draining mix, nutrients can wash out quickly. Regular fertilization becomes necessary to replenish these nutrients. Opt for balanced, slow-release fertilizers and adjust the frequency and strength according to the growing season and species needs.
DIY vs. Pre-Made Mixes
While premade bonsai soil mixes are available, creating your own allows for customization. For beginners, starting with a premade mix and then tweaking it as you gain experience can be a good approach. For the more experienced, DIY mixes offer complete control over the soil composition.
In bonsai cultivation, particularly in the humid and wet environments of Zones 10 and 11, soil composition and drainage are not just routine aspects; they are the foundation of your bonsai's health and beauty. By understanding and tailoring your soil mix to the specific needs of your bonsai and local climate, you ensure a thriving, vibrant miniature landscape. Remember, bonsai is an art form deeply rooted in nature, and it begins with the soil.
To learn more about this and many other subjects related to bonsai cultivation in growing zones 10 & 11 join your local bonsai club. In South Florida there is The Bonsai Society of Miami (founded 1964), meeting on the second Tuesday of each month at Pinecrest Gardens, 11000 Red Road, Pinecrest FL 33156 on the corner of Red Road & 112th St. (Killian Drive). For questions please contact Glenn 786-298-3631 or Bob 305-793-9755.
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Foundation for Bonsai in Zones 10 and 11
Submitted by Glenn Hilton
In the world of bonsai, soil isn't just dirt—it's the lifeblood of your miniature trees. For enthusiasts in Growing Zones 10 and 11, where conditions are often wet and humid, mastering soil composition and drainage becomes crucial. This blog will delve into the intricacies of tailoring the perfect soil mix for bonsai, ensuring optimal health and growth for these living art pieces.
Understanding the Basics of Bonsai Soil
Bonsai soil differs significantly from regular garden soil. It needs to provide support, nutrients, water, and air to the roots. A good bonsai soil mix has three key qualities: it should drain quickly, retain moisture, and offer enough aeration. Achieving this balance is especially critical in Zones 10 and 11, where excess moisture can lead to root rot and other diseases.
Components of an Ideal Bonsai Soil Mix
A typical bonsai soil mix contains varying proportions of organic and inorganic components. Here's what each brings to the table:
- Akadama: A hard-baked Japanese clay, Akadama is excellent for water retention and provides a stable structure. However, it can break down over time, reducing aeration.
- Pumice: This volcanic byproduct aids in aeration and moisture retention without compacting. It's a must-have for preventing soil compaction in humid climates.
- Lava Rock: Lava rock ensures good drainage and adds structure to the soil, helping with root development.
- Organic Matter: Composted bark or peat moss can be included for nutrient retention. However, in wetter zones, their proportion should be carefully managed to avoid over-moisture.
The specific ratios of these components can vary based on the bonsai species and local climate conditions. For Zones 10 and 11, a higher proportion of inorganic materials is often recommended.
Tailoring Soil Mix for Wet Climates
In Zones 10 and 11, the challenge is to prevent waterlogging while maintaining enough moisture. Here are some adjustments to consider:
- Increase Inorganic Material: Boost the percentage of inorganic components like pumice and lava rock. This change ensures better drainage and reduces the risk of root rot.
- Reduce Organic Components: While organic matter is vital for nutrient supply, it can retain too much moisture in humid conditions. Lower its proportion in your mix.
- Regular Refreshing: Soil in wetter climates may need to be refreshed more often as it can compact faster. Consider repotting your bonsai every one to two years.
Regularly checking the soil moisture is essential. Use a chopstick or moisture meter to gauge when watering is needed. In humid zones, allowing the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings can be beneficial.
Also, be aware of the signs of poor drainage or compacted soil, such as yellowing leaves or stunted growth. These symptoms call for an immediate soil assessment and potential repotting.
Special Considerations for Specific Bonsai Species
Different bonsai species have varied soil requirements. Tropical species, common in warmer zones, often prefer a bit more moisture and organic matter. Conversely, desert species like junipers demand very well-draining soils. Researching your specific bonsai species can guide you in customizing the soil mix further.
The Role of Fertilization
Soil isn't just about water and air; it's also about nutrients. In a well-draining mix, nutrients can wash out quickly. Regular fertilization becomes necessary to replenish these nutrients. Opt for balanced, slow-release fertilizers and adjust the frequency and strength according to the growing season and species needs.
DIY vs. Pre-Made Mixes
While premade bonsai soil mixes are available, creating your own allows for customization. For beginners, starting with a premade mix and then tweaking it as you gain experience can be a good approach. For the more experienced, DIY mixes offer complete control over the soil composition.
In bonsai cultivation, particularly in the humid and wet environments of Zones 10 and 11, soil composition and drainage are not just routine aspects; they are the foundation of your bonsai's health and beauty. By understanding and tailoring your soil mix to the specific needs of your bonsai and local climate, you ensure a thriving, vibrant miniature landscape. Remember, bonsai is an art form deeply rooted in nature, and it begins with the soil.
To learn more about this and many other subjects related to bonsai cultivation in growing zones 10 & 11 join your local bonsai club. In South Florida there is The Bonsai Society of Miami (founded 1964), meeting on the second Tuesday of each month at Pinecrest Gardens, 11000 Red Road, Pinecrest FL 33156 on the corner of Red Road & 112th St. (Killian Drive). For questions please contact Glenn 786-298-3631 or Bob 305-793-9755.
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Basic Bonsai Styles
Formal Upright ( Chokkan ) -
The formal upright style is a very common form of Bonsai. This style occurs often in nature, especially when the tree is exposed to lots of light and doesn’t face the problem of competing trees. For this style, tapering of the upright-growing trunk must be clearly visible. The trunk must therefore be thicker at the bottom and must grow increasingly thinner with the height. At about 1/4 of the total length of the trunk, branching should begin. A single branch should form the top of the tree; the trunk should not span the entire height of the tree.
Informal Upright ( Moyogi ) -
The informal upright style is common in both nature and in the art of Bonsai. The trunk grows upright in the shape of a letter ‘S’ and at every turn branching occurs. Tapering of the trunk must be clearly visible, with the base of the trunk thicker than the higher portions.
Slanting ( Chokkan ) -
As a result of the wind blowing in one dominant direction or when a tree is in the shadow and must bend toward the sun, the tree will lean in one direction. With Bonsai, the leaning style must grow at an angle of 60 - 80 degrees relative to the ground. The roots are well developed on one side to keep the tree standing. On the side toward which the tree is leaning, the roots are clearly not as well developed. The first branch grows opposite the direction of the tree is leaning, in order to balance the tree. The trunk can be slightly bent or completely straight, but still be thicker at the bottom than at the top.
Semi-Cascade ( Han-Kengai ) -
The semi-cascade style, just like the cascade style, is found in nature on cliff and on the banks of rivers and lakes. The trunk grows upright for a small distance and then bends downward. Unlike the cascade style, the semi-cascade trunk will never grow below the bottom of the pot. The crown is usually above the rim of the pot while subsequent branching occurs below the rim.
Cascade ( Kengai ) -
A tree living in the nature on a steep cliff can bend downward as a result of several factors, like snow or falling rocks, for example. These factors cause the tree to grow downward. With Bonsai it can be difficult to maintain a downward-growing tree because the direction of growth opposes the tree’s natural tendency to grow upright.
Cascade Bonsai are planted in tall pots. The tree should grow upright for a small distance but then bend downward. The crown of the tree usually grows above the rim of the pot, but the subsequent branches alternate left and right on the outermost curves of the S-shaped trunk. These branches should grow out horizontally in order to maintain the balance of the tree
Literati ( Bujingi ) -
The literati style is the prime example of trees that must struggle to survive. In nature this style of tree grows in areas densely populated by many other trees and competition is so fierce that the tree can only survive by growing taller then all others around it. The trunk grows crookedly upward and is completely without branching because the sun only hits the top of the tree. To make sure that it looks even tougher, some branches are “Jinned” (without bark). When the bark has been removed from one side of the trunk, the trunk is referred to as a “Shari”. The idea is to demonstrate that the tree really has to struggle to survive. These trees are normally placed in small, round pots.
Windswept ( Fukinagashi ) -
The windswept style is also a good example of trees that must struggle to survive. All the branches and also the trunk grow to one side as though the wind has been blowing the tree constantly in one direction. The branches grow out on all sides of the trunk but will all eventually be bent to one side.
Double Trunk ( Sokan ) -
The double trunk style is common in nature, but is not actually that common in the art of Bonsai. Usually both trunks will grow out of one root system, but it is also possible that the smaller trunk grows out of the larger trunk just above the ground. The two trunks will vary in both thickness and length; the thicker and more developed trunk grows nearly upright, while the smaller trunk will grow out a bit slanted. Both trunks will contribute to a single crown of leaves.
Multi-Trunk ( Kabudachi ) -
In theory the multi trunk style is the same as the double trunk style, but with 3 or more trunks. All the trunks grow out of one root system, and it truly is one single tree. All the trunks form one crown of leaves, in which the thickest and most developed trunk forms the top. Japanese bonsai prefers it, to have an odd number of trunks.
Forest / Group ( Yose-Ue ) -
The forest style looks a lot like the multi-trunk style, but the difference is that it is comprised of several trees rather than one tree with several trunks. The most developed trees are planted in the middle of a large and shallow pot. On the sides of the pot a few smaller trees are planted to contribute to one single crown. The trees are planted not in a straight line but in a staggered pattern, because this way the forest looks natural
Roots over Rock ( Seki-Joju ) -
On rocky terrain, trees must search for good soil with their roots, and good soil is often found in cracks and holes. The roots are naked and unprotected before they reach the ground so they must be protect themselves from the sun: a special bark grows around them. With Bonsai the roots grow over a rock into the pot, so caring for this tree isn’t really different from caring for any other style. The tree over the rock can also have a style of its own, although the broom style for example looks unnatural.
Growing in a Rock ( Ishisuki ) -
In this style the roots of the tree are growing in the cracks and holes of the rock. This means that there is just not much room for the roots to develop and take up nutrients. Trees, which grow in rocks, will never look really healthy, thus it should be visible that the tree has to struggle to survive. It is important to fertilize and water this style often, because there is not much space available to store water and nutrients. The rock in which the Bonsai grows is often placed in a very shallow dish, which is sometimes filled with water of very fine stones.
Raft ( Ikadabuki ) -
Sometimes a cracked tree can survive by pointing its branches upward. The old root system is then just capable of providing the branches with enough nutrients. After a while new roots start growing out of the side of the fallen tree, and these roots will eventually take over the function of the old root system. The old branches, which now point into the air, develop as a result of this increasing influx of nutrients: The raft style has been created! The new trunks form one single crown of leaves; just like the Yose-Ue style. The difference between the Yose-Ue style and the Ikadabuki styles lies in the fact that in the Ikadabuki style it is clearly visible that the new trunks emerge from the older, fallen trunk.
Driftwood ( Sharimiki ) -
As time passes, some trees develop bald or barkless places on their trunks as a result of harsh weather conditions. The barkless portion usually begins at the place where the roots emerge from the ground, and grows increasingly thinner as it travels up the trunk. Intense sunlight can bleach these parts, forming a very characteristic portion of the tree. With Bonsai the bark is removed with a very sharp knife and the barkless spot is treated with calcium sulfate in order to expedite the bleaching process.
Broom ( Hokidachi ) -
The broom style is suited for deciduous trees with extensive, fine branching. The trunk is straight and upright and does not continue to the top of the tree; it branches out in all directions about 1/3 of the way up the entire height of the tree. In this manner the branches and leaves form a ball-shaped crown, which can also be very beautiful during the winter months.
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Basic Bonsai Styles
Formal Upright ( Chokkan ) -
The formal upright style is a very common form of Bonsai. This style occurs often in nature, especially when the tree is exposed to lots of light and doesn’t face the problem of competing trees. For this style, tapering of the upright-growing trunk must be clearly visible. The trunk must therefore be thicker at the bottom and must grow increasingly thinner with the height. At about 1/4 of the total length of the trunk, branching should begin. A single branch should form the top of the tree; the trunk should not span the entire height of the tree.
Informal Upright ( Moyogi ) -
The informal upright style is common in both nature and in the art of Bonsai. The trunk grows upright in the shape of a letter ‘S’ and at every turn branching occurs. Tapering of the trunk must be clearly visible, with the base of the trunk thicker than the higher portions.
Slanting ( Chokkan ) -
As a result of the wind blowing in one dominant direction or when a tree is in the shadow and must bend toward the sun, the tree will lean in one direction. With Bonsai, the leaning style must grow at an angle of 60 - 80 degrees relative to the ground. The roots are well developed on one side to keep the tree standing. On the side toward which the tree is leaning, the roots are clearly not as well developed. The first branch grows opposite the direction of the tree is leaning, in order to balance the tree. The trunk can be slightly bent or completely straight, but still be thicker at the bottom than at the top.
Semi-Cascade ( Han-Kengai ) -
The semi-cascade style, just like the cascade style, is found in nature on cliff and on the banks of rivers and lakes. The trunk grows upright for a small distance and then bends downward. Unlike the cascade style, the semi-cascade trunk will never grow below the bottom of the pot. The crown is usually above the rim of the pot while subsequent branching occurs below the rim.
Cascade ( Kengai ) -
A tree living in the nature on a steep cliff can bend downward as a result of several factors, like snow or falling rocks, for example. These factors cause the tree to grow downward. With Bonsai it can be difficult to maintain a downward-growing tree because the direction of growth opposes the tree’s natural tendency to grow upright.
Cascade Bonsai are planted in tall pots. The tree should grow upright for a small distance but then bend downward. The crown of the tree usually grows above the rim of the pot, but the subsequent branches alternate left and right on the outermost curves of the S-shaped trunk. These branches should grow out horizontally in order to maintain the balance of the tree
Literati ( Bujingi ) -
The literati style is the prime example of trees that must struggle to survive. In nature this style of tree grows in areas densely populated by many other trees and competition is so fierce that the tree can only survive by growing taller then all others around it. The trunk grows crookedly upward and is completely without branching because the sun only hits the top of the tree. To make sure that it looks even tougher, some branches are “Jinned” (without bark). When the bark has been removed from one side of the trunk, the trunk is referred to as a “Shari”. The idea is to demonstrate that the tree really has to struggle to survive. These trees are normally placed in small, round pots.
Windswept ( Fukinagashi ) -
The windswept style is also a good example of trees that must struggle to survive. All the branches and also the trunk grow to one side as though the wind has been blowing the tree constantly in one direction. The branches grow out on all sides of the trunk but will all eventually be bent to one side.
Double Trunk ( Sokan ) -
The double trunk style is common in nature, but is not actually that common in the art of Bonsai. Usually both trunks will grow out of one root system, but it is also possible that the smaller trunk grows out of the larger trunk just above the ground. The two trunks will vary in both thickness and length; the thicker and more developed trunk grows nearly upright, while the smaller trunk will grow out a bit slanted. Both trunks will contribute to a single crown of leaves.
Multi-Trunk ( Kabudachi ) -
In theory the multi trunk style is the same as the double trunk style, but with 3 or more trunks. All the trunks grow out of one root system, and it truly is one single tree. All the trunks form one crown of leaves, in which the thickest and most developed trunk forms the top. Japanese bonsai prefers it, to have an odd number of trunks.
Forest / Group ( Yose-Ue ) -
The forest style looks a lot like the multi-trunk style, but the difference is that it is comprised of several trees rather than one tree with several trunks. The most developed trees are planted in the middle of a large and shallow pot. On the sides of the pot a few smaller trees are planted to contribute to one single crown. The trees are planted not in a straight line but in a staggered pattern, because this way the forest looks natural
Roots over Rock ( Seki-Joju ) -
On rocky terrain, trees must search for good soil with their roots, and good soil is often found in cracks and holes. The roots are naked and unprotected before they reach the ground so they must be protect themselves from the sun: a special bark grows around them. With Bonsai the roots grow over a rock into the pot, so caring for this tree isn’t really different from caring for any other style. The tree over the rock can also have a style of its own, although the broom style for example looks unnatural.
Growing in a Rock ( Ishisuki ) -
In this style the roots of the tree are growing in the cracks and holes of the rock. This means that there is just not much room for the roots to develop and take up nutrients. Trees, which grow in rocks, will never look really healthy, thus it should be visible that the tree has to struggle to survive. It is important to fertilize and water this style often, because there is not much space available to store water and nutrients. The rock in which the Bonsai grows is often placed in a very shallow dish, which is sometimes filled with water of very fine stones.
Raft ( Ikadabuki ) -
Sometimes a cracked tree can survive by pointing its branches upward. The old root system is then just capable of providing the branches with enough nutrients. After a while new roots start growing out of the side of the fallen tree, and these roots will eventually take over the function of the old root system. The old branches, which now point into the air, develop as a result of this increasing influx of nutrients: The raft style has been created! The new trunks form one single crown of leaves; just like the Yose-Ue style. The difference between the Yose-Ue style and the Ikadabuki styles lies in the fact that in the Ikadabuki style it is clearly visible that the new trunks emerge from the older, fallen trunk.
Driftwood ( Sharimiki ) -
As time passes, some trees develop bald or barkless places on their trunks as a result of harsh weather conditions. The barkless portion usually begins at the place where the roots emerge from the ground, and grows increasingly thinner as it travels up the trunk. Intense sunlight can bleach these parts, forming a very characteristic portion of the tree. With Bonsai the bark is removed with a very sharp knife and the barkless spot is treated with calcium sulfate in order to expedite the bleaching process.
Broom ( Hokidachi ) -
The broom style is suited for deciduous trees with extensive, fine branching. The trunk is straight and upright and does not continue to the top of the tree; it branches out in all directions about 1/3 of the way up the entire height of the tree. In this manner the branches and leaves form a ball-shaped crown, which can also be very beautiful during the winter months.
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Basic Bonsai Care Sheet
Many people have told us they kill bonsai trees. It’s an education thing. If you’re not educated on proper care, it’s not really your fault. Read through for some helpful tips to keeping your bonsai tree alive. Good luck and enjoy your tree.
Placement or Location:
First you must remember your new purchase might look like a cute little houseplant but it’s actually a tree and trees live outside. Yes, there are some species that can do well indoors but the majority, need to be outside. They can tolerate full sun but would do better in morning and late afternoon sun. From 10 AM to 2 PM, the sun can be too hot. You know how that feels if you are outside with the sun beating down on you.
A screen patio is ideal. It allows your bonsai tree to receive filtered sun light and will be protect from strong winds.
If you wish to enjoy tree in the house that’s fine. What you must realize is indoors can kill your tree. The air conditioning pulls the moisture out. You may need to check the soil more often to be sure it hasn’t dried out – possibly need to water twice a day. The lack of sun – photosynthesis keeps your tree green. To have a healthy tree, our suggestion is to take it in for a day or two. Surely you and your guests will enjoy it, but remember to take it back out.
Watering:
Generally, bonsai like to be moist, not soggy. That is, when the top half of the soil becomes dry, it is time to water; and soak it thoroughly. To check the level of moisture in soil, use a moisture meter or a wooden chopstick, which will indicate a watermark. A thorough way to water is the "dishpan method" which is placing the bonsai in a pan, with the water level above the soil---when the air bubbles stop, it has obtained sufficient water. Mist-spraying foliage serves to provide humidity and washes away dust off your tree. Avoid spraying blooms to prevent early wilting. Trays filled with gravel and water (humidity trays) adds humidity around the bonsai resting on top of the gravel.
Check the moisture requirement for each tree. Soil elements may vary and watering may vary. Some species need to be kept on the dryer side, while others favor to be dryer during certain times of the year. Check daily for water needs---never use a watering schedule, but water when the tree requires it. The smaller the pot, the more often it must be watered.
As a general rule in our area (South Florida) - spring through summer – with our hot temperatures and drying winds may require you to water twice a day. Fall through winter – cooler temperatures, less wind and slowing of growth also means less water. Some trees may only need to be watered once a day or every other day. Be sure to water thoroughly. When hand watering, a gently spray is better. Allow the water to flow out the drain holes--- wait a couple minutes and repeat.
Feeding or Fertilizing:
We recommend you use different types of fertilizers and rotate their application.
First - a time-release granular fertilizer such as Dynamite or Shake-N-Feed give your tree a well-balanced start. It usually lasts from 4-6 months. This should be supplemented with a liquid of water-soluble fertilizer such as Peters or Miracle Grow at half strength (1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water) every 10-14 days. You may wish to rotate with a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer such as Fish Emulsion (5-2-2).
Liquid fertilizers should be sprayed on the foliage as well as saturated into the roots. When applying liquid fertilizer – first water the tree well with plain water then apply the liquid fertilizer. That way you will not burn the roots and possibly kill your tree.
Because bonsai are watered so frequently, and so thoroughly, a lot of the nutrients the tree needs are constantly being leeched out. Therefore, regular fertilizing is important.
Pests and Diseases - Insect Control:
A healthy tree resists pests, but check weekly for signs of withering new growth, foliage turning silver/gray, yellow, leaf curling, chewing marks, sawdust or missing. Keep dead leaves off the surface, remove weeds and trim away dead branches. Common insects that attack plants will also attack bonsai trees. Raid Home & Garden aerosol (green can) is a convenient and effective spray or use Safer Insecticide Soap. Both are available at Home Depot or your local grocery stores. Spraying the entire tree will not kill it.
Training:
Pinching leaves: trees produce smaller leaves than normal if new buds are pinched. Pinch off the new growth with your fingernail. New leaves will come out smaller in size. Pruning branches: the number of branches increases with pruning. When you cut off the
end of a branch, generally two new branches will form. Cutting both4of those will produce 2 new branches and so on.
Shaping:
The first branch (lowest) should be the longest and alternate up the tree and get shorter up to the top. The branches and leaf should form a triangular shape. The triangle is one of the traditional bonsai shapes, and the three points wisely represent our
relationship to heaven, earth, and our fellow man.
Wiring:
Wiring is done to imitate the natural curves of trees in nature. Wire is wrapped around the trunk and branches securely. Very carefully, you bend the branch to the shape you desire. You will need to check the wire on a regular basis. You will need to remove the wire before it cuts in and damages the bark. If the branch does not hold the shape you desired, it should be rewrapped and reshaped. Good wiring is a skill that takes time to learn.
Repotting:
Repotting refreshes the soil and keeps the tree from being root-bound. It gives your tree a new lease on life. New soil promotes new root growth that promotes new branches and leaves. Before repotting any tree, be sure it’s the correct season to do it. Generally, Tropicals can be done in the spring or summer while pines, junipers or cypress can be done in winter.
Depending on how fast your tree grows will determine how often you will need to repot. The minimum is a year. Some tree can go 3-5 years before it needs to be done. If you’re not sure to repot or how to repot your tree, contact us for help.
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Many people have told us they kill bonsai trees. It’s an education thing. If you’re not educated on proper care, it’s not really your fault. Read through for some helpful tips to keeping your bonsai tree alive. Good luck and enjoy your tree.
Placement or Location:
First you must remember your new purchase might look like a cute little houseplant but it’s actually a tree and trees live outside. Yes, there are some species that can do well indoors but the majority, need to be outside. They can tolerate full sun but would do better in morning and late afternoon sun. From 10 AM to 2 PM, the sun can be too hot. You know how that feels if you are outside with the sun beating down on you.
A screen patio is ideal. It allows your bonsai tree to receive filtered sun light and will be protect from strong winds.
If you wish to enjoy tree in the house that’s fine. What you must realize is indoors can kill your tree. The air conditioning pulls the moisture out. You may need to check the soil more often to be sure it hasn’t dried out – possibly need to water twice a day. The lack of sun – photosynthesis keeps your tree green. To have a healthy tree, our suggestion is to take it in for a day or two. Surely you and your guests will enjoy it, but remember to take it back out.
Watering:
Generally, bonsai like to be moist, not soggy. That is, when the top half of the soil becomes dry, it is time to water; and soak it thoroughly. To check the level of moisture in soil, use a moisture meter or a wooden chopstick, which will indicate a watermark. A thorough way to water is the "dishpan method" which is placing the bonsai in a pan, with the water level above the soil---when the air bubbles stop, it has obtained sufficient water. Mist-spraying foliage serves to provide humidity and washes away dust off your tree. Avoid spraying blooms to prevent early wilting. Trays filled with gravel and water (humidity trays) adds humidity around the bonsai resting on top of the gravel.
Check the moisture requirement for each tree. Soil elements may vary and watering may vary. Some species need to be kept on the dryer side, while others favor to be dryer during certain times of the year. Check daily for water needs---never use a watering schedule, but water when the tree requires it. The smaller the pot, the more often it must be watered.
As a general rule in our area (South Florida) - spring through summer – with our hot temperatures and drying winds may require you to water twice a day. Fall through winter – cooler temperatures, less wind and slowing of growth also means less water. Some trees may only need to be watered once a day or every other day. Be sure to water thoroughly. When hand watering, a gently spray is better. Allow the water to flow out the drain holes--- wait a couple minutes and repeat.
Feeding or Fertilizing:
We recommend you use different types of fertilizers and rotate their application.
First - a time-release granular fertilizer such as Dynamite or Shake-N-Feed give your tree a well-balanced start. It usually lasts from 4-6 months. This should be supplemented with a liquid of water-soluble fertilizer such as Peters or Miracle Grow at half strength (1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water) every 10-14 days. You may wish to rotate with a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer such as Fish Emulsion (5-2-2).
Liquid fertilizers should be sprayed on the foliage as well as saturated into the roots. When applying liquid fertilizer – first water the tree well with plain water then apply the liquid fertilizer. That way you will not burn the roots and possibly kill your tree.
Because bonsai are watered so frequently, and so thoroughly, a lot of the nutrients the tree needs are constantly being leeched out. Therefore, regular fertilizing is important.
Pests and Diseases - Insect Control:
A healthy tree resists pests, but check weekly for signs of withering new growth, foliage turning silver/gray, yellow, leaf curling, chewing marks, sawdust or missing. Keep dead leaves off the surface, remove weeds and trim away dead branches. Common insects that attack plants will also attack bonsai trees. Raid Home & Garden aerosol (green can) is a convenient and effective spray or use Safer Insecticide Soap. Both are available at Home Depot or your local grocery stores. Spraying the entire tree will not kill it.
Training:
Pinching leaves: trees produce smaller leaves than normal if new buds are pinched. Pinch off the new growth with your fingernail. New leaves will come out smaller in size. Pruning branches: the number of branches increases with pruning. When you cut off the
end of a branch, generally two new branches will form. Cutting both4of those will produce 2 new branches and so on.
Shaping:
The first branch (lowest) should be the longest and alternate up the tree and get shorter up to the top. The branches and leaf should form a triangular shape. The triangle is one of the traditional bonsai shapes, and the three points wisely represent our
relationship to heaven, earth, and our fellow man.
Wiring:
Wiring is done to imitate the natural curves of trees in nature. Wire is wrapped around the trunk and branches securely. Very carefully, you bend the branch to the shape you desire. You will need to check the wire on a regular basis. You will need to remove the wire before it cuts in and damages the bark. If the branch does not hold the shape you desired, it should be rewrapped and reshaped. Good wiring is a skill that takes time to learn.
Repotting:
Repotting refreshes the soil and keeps the tree from being root-bound. It gives your tree a new lease on life. New soil promotes new root growth that promotes new branches and leaves. Before repotting any tree, be sure it’s the correct season to do it. Generally, Tropicals can be done in the spring or summer while pines, junipers or cypress can be done in winter.
Depending on how fast your tree grows will determine how often you will need to repot. The minimum is a year. Some tree can go 3-5 years before it needs to be done. If you’re not sure to repot or how to repot your tree, contact us for help.
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